Positano, Ti Amo.

Today I was floating in the warm waters of the Mediterranean, just off the pebbly beach of the Spaggio Grande, when the realization hit me that this will all be a memory soon. I realized that too many times in life I let things pass me by only to look back with nostalgia.

Positano is really starting to grow on me. It's starting to feel very familiar like an old friend I haven't seen in years. I forgot how much I like it here. So while floating in the ocean, silent with my ears just below the water level, toes pointed upwards, I tried to be in the moment. I felt the sun warm my face. I scanned the beach full of happy travelers. I decided that if I'm going to become nostalgic looking back on this trip it's going to be for good reason.

Enjoying the sun at Spaggio Grande

Our day started with pastries and fruit courtesy of our Hotel the Buca di Bacco (literally translated to Bacchus's hole or wine cellar, Bacchus being the Greek god of wine). We sipped carrot juice, slurped peaches, and ate pastries with chocolate and cheese. I globbed generous helpings of eggs and bacon onto my plate. After returning for a refill Jenna pointed out that the eggs are just there for the uncultured Americans who can't start their day without poultry and pig fat. Fine. I like eggs and bacon. Maybe I'll mix in a mozzarella ball and call it even.

We had a tiny guest for breakfast. Bzz. Bzz. First he wanted my peaches, then he wanted Jenna's carrot juice, then back to my peaches. "Vespa, vespa" (wasp, wasp) warned our Italian server while chuckling at our squeals and flails. He gestured towards the ferry staff below spraying their boats with a powerful hose and making an equally load buzzing noise. "Bzz, Bzz" he laughed, implying that that was the noise we heard and not the tiny bee. I've heard Italians can be rude, especially to American tourists, but our experience has been different. Everyone we've met so far has been very friendly.

Especially Mario who works at the front desk at our hotel. We spent 45 minutes with Mario yesterday going over all of our plans for the next week. Anyone walking into the lobby may have thought we were looking for hidden treasure. We were surrounded by maps, ferry schedules,  bus routes, brochures, and guidebooks. Mario lives in Amalfi, a short drive up the coast, and so he had some personal suggestions for things to do and see.

On Tuesday we decided we'd hike the Path of the Goods (ferry to Amalfi, bus to Bomerano, hike to Nocelle, walk back to Positano). On Wednesday we decided to sign up for a famous cooking class hosted at our hotel. When I asked Mario if it was beginner friendly he just laughed. We agreed it would be best for Jenna to do the cooking and I'll help with the eating. On Thursday we'll sail on a guided cruise to the island of Capri where we'll see the island, swim, and explore the Blue Grotto. It costs extra to take a rowboat into the Grotto but it's something we both want to see. I'm actually a little geeked about it and plan to read up on its geological formation. I asked Jenna if she was interested in the geological history of the Blue Grotto to which she replied: "semi-interested". I can work with that.

Let me live and I'll grant you a wish!
That's easy. I wish I lived in Positano.

Friday portends to be our most adventurous day by far. Taking the drunk Canadian couple's advice we have decided to rent a scooter for the day. We'll tour the coast stopping in Amalfi, Praiano, and Ravello.

Just typing the names of the towns I can hear Mario pronouncing them with such passion. We're not just going to Ravello. We're going to aya-Rrrrravelll-oh (pinch thumb and forefinger for emphasis). The simplest words and phrases are said by Italians with such passion and heart. It's like they really savor the language, bathing each word in a honey syrup. Maybe I'll attempt a similar approach when I return to Maine. Oh where do I live you ask? Why just down the street in ah-West-uh-brrrrrrruuuuck-ah (don't forget to roll the 'R' generously).

I was met with a second laugh when I asked Mario if the scooter ride would be dangerous. "It is the buses", he said, "they use all of the road". We all agreed that if we go slow, stay far to the right, watch our mirrors, pull over if needed, and be cautious of buses and curves, we'll be fine. We'll hit up all of Mario's local recommendations for lunch and dinner. Oh, and take plenty of pictures and video.

After finishing up our itinerary and thanking Mario for his help (grazia, prego) we spent some time exploring the local shops. One thing is certain: the Italians love their lemons. There are lemon printed aprons, lemon potholders, lemon candies, ceramic lemons, lemon soap, and just lemons. They are everywhere. It is lemon everything. Some stores are devoted solely to lemon-based products. It is the "Cool-as-a-Moose" theme gone lemon. We decided to do some of our Christmas shopping early. If you know us you're probably getting something with lemon. This all works great for me because as Jenna can attest I love lemon. One of my favorite dishes to cook at home is an angel hair pasta with chicken and lemon juice. Maybe I'll bring home some authentic Positano lemons for next time.

The movie set that is Positano, Italy

As we continued browsing in shop fronts and markets the road continued to go up, and up, and up. It curved back and forth as it brought us higher and higher above the Positano cliffs. We were now a part of that famous postcard shot. We joined groups of toursts with cell phones out taking snaps of the ocean and beaches down below. Even with all the scenery right in front of you it doesn't seem real. It seems like you're on a movie set. I wonder how long I'd have to stay here until it felt normal. Surely more than a week.

At the top of the hill we found a tiny restaurant with an outdoor terrace that stretched out over the cliffside. We decided we'd come back here for dinner and eat above the sparkling sea.

On the way back to our room we stopped at some clothing stores to buy shirts and hoodies with Positano plastered across the front. I'm being careful not to wear them until I get home. I don't want to be that guy who wears the band's shirt at the concert. Jenna found a cute blue and white zip up in a size more suited for Harmony and Melody. "No, no, try it," encouraged the sweet old Italian woman who ran the shop.

We both knew it was too small but Jenna humored her and we had a good laugh at the results. Tight across the middle, stopped just above the belly button, sleeves at elbow length. "No, no, I don't think so" joked the woman. We laughed and later became suspicious that she does this to all tourists. Dress them in baby clothes to get a good laugh. Fine with us. We had one too.

One table by the sea please

After the sun went down we set off for dinner. Back up those windy roads to the top of Positano to the Ristorante Capitano. We requested a seat at the railing that overlooks the sea. We were led to an isolated table with a single candle lit. If you like ambient dinners Positano is the place for you. It seems there is a dimly lit, romantic restaurant every 5 to 10 feet along the road.

We started off with a sparkling Pinot Grigio called Bianco Bianco. We shared an amazing Tuna tartare with avocado and cherry tomatoes. It was garden fresh and plated with care. For the main course I ordered steak with a side salad of arugula leaves and fresh tomatoes. It was a hard decision between that and what the menu called a "cone shaped pizza with mozzarella and ham". The food there was so good that I think I might come back for the cone shaped pizza. I am Ahab and the cone pizza is my white whale. I will be back.

Jenna had eggplant and sausage pizza. I am growing suspicious that Jenna is just here for the eggplant. She finds a way to work it into every meal. I've never been a huge eggplant fan but with the way they cook in Positano I could become a believer. I'm going to make a goal to try one eggplant dish while I'm here. I'll report back on how it goes.

Someone get this American more wine!

After dinner it was back to the room with a bottle of Limoncello. It's like drinking a lemon-flavored vodka. A very, very, very lemon-flavored vodka. It was sweet and warm and I could feel it traveling from head to toe. Be careful with this though. No one wants to get sick from lemon alcohol. Sip wisely.

We watched the Tuscany episode of one of our favorite travel shows: Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. This gets us in the mood for more Italian fun.

We fall asleep dreaming about our next adventure.